Starting This Research Trip
Flew down to Baton Rouge last Tuesday morning. Figured the only way to understand folk religion down here is talking to actual folks. Packed my old backpack: voice recorder, notebook, sunscreen – Louisiana sun don’t play. First stop: this tiny cafe near the levee. Overheard these older guys talking about “traiteur” healers fixing back pain. Just leaned into their conversation like “Hey y’all, mind explaining that?” Folks here, they talk easy if you sound curious, not like some professor.
Hitting Community Ground
Thursday drove way out to St. Martinville. A local contact told me “Just be at the crossroads near Evangeline Oak after sunset, you’ll see something.” Damn right I saw. Small group lighting candles, leaving coins and tobacco pouches by the roots. Wasn’t fancy – just quiet mumbling, hands touching the old tree bark. Didn’t interrupt, just scribbled notes in my car later. Felt heavy, that kind of quiet where even your breathing sounds loud.
Saturday morning hit this huge Pentecostal church in Lafayette. Total flip – loud music, folks shouting “Amen!”, preacher sweating through his suit. A lady grabbed my hand during prayer, yelled “Feel that fire, brother?” My awkward “Yep, totally feeling it” got some laughs after service. Coffee in the hall, they showed me pictures of healing services. People laid out flat on the floor, some crying. “It’s real movement,” one guy said, wiping his eyes. Hard not to nod along.
The Mix In Back Alleys
Sunday was weird. Heard about a hoodoo shop tucked behind a laundromat in New Orleans. Place smelled like herbs and old books. Owner, Ms. Leona – tiny lady, eyes sharp like broken glass. Pointed at my recorder: “Turn that off if you want real talk.” Talked roots, protection oils, St. Michael medals nailed above doors.
What folks blend here ain’t neat:
- Voodoo altars holding Catholic saints statues
- Baptist hymns playing at folk healing circles
- “Gris-gris” bags sold next to prayer cards downtown
Ms. Leona shrugged hard. “People got everyday problems. They use what works.” Paid for a small blue pouch she called “just for safe driving.” Still hanging from my rental car mirror. Can’t say if it works, but hey – I ain’t dented it yet.
Takeaways So Far
Realized real quick: trying to map this stuff is like nailing fog. What people say they believe ain’t half the story. Saw a guy with a big cross tattoo buying jinx-removing candles. Asked him, “That conflict much?” He laughed. “Life’s complicated, bro. Jesus and my grandma’s remedies both got my back.”
Wrapped early today. Sitting at Louis Armstrong Park now, typing this. Some guy playing sax near the bench. Sounds like pain and joy all jammed up together. Probably the best summary I’m gonna get.
