Okay folks, buckle up because today’s adventure was pure Croatian chaos, in the best way possible. Wanted to check out this famous Bačvice Beach in Split everyone keeps yapping about. Heard it was the place to be. Spoiler: it mostly is, if you like people-watching and weird ball games.
Getting There Was Half the ‘Fun’
Woke up way too early, still kinda jet-lagged. Grabbed a ridiculously strong coffee from a hole-in-the-wall near my apartment – tasted like rocket fuel but did the trick. Hopped on a local bus, trusting Google Maps way too much. Got off near some water, realized it was the wrong side of the harbor. Ended up walking along the Riva promenade, which was actually kinda nice with the morning sun, but damn, it was already getting hot. Saw all these people chilling at cafes like it was happy hour at 9 AM. Finally spotted the beach signs pointing away from the fancy yachts. Turned a corner, and bam! There it was. Bigger than I expected, but mostly concrete and pebbles? Sand’s kind of… sparse near the water’s edge. Packed even in the morning!
Navigating the Beach Scene
First mission: find a spot. Easier said than done. People were already claiming every inch of concrete ledge and pebbly patch. Saw those weird orange jellyfish warnings everyone talks about – yup, they were right there, bobbing around like gross little balloons. Decided swimming might need a rethink. Found a tiny patch near one of those concrete changing cabin things – super basic, but hey, locked the bag inside. Changed into trunks – felt a bit exposed honestly, those cabins aren’t exactly palaces. Smelled faintly of salt and… well, public changing room. Lock was janky too.
Walked down into the water. It’s shallow. Super shallow. Like, walk for ages shallow. The bottom is sandy further out, thank god. Water was amazingly clear though, totally see the little fish darting around my ankles. Felt freezing at first, got used to it fast. Saw a few brave souls actually swimming properly out deeper, dodging the jellyfish. Mostly people were just wading or playing in the shallows.
The Picigin Show
The main event? Picigin. This crazy ball game the locals are obsessed with. Groups of guys standing in knee-deep water, smacking this tiny, flimsy-looking ball around with their palms. Goal seems to be to keep it in the air as long as possible without letting it touch the water. Looks simple. It’s not. They’re diving, splashing, shouting, laughing like maniacs. Watched one group for ages. Utterly bizarre and strangely hypnotic. Tried to figure out the rules – gave up. Looks exhausting.
Fuelling Up & People Galore
Got hungry. Food options right by the beach are… limited and pricey. Walked back up towards the cafes lining the promenade behind the beach. Grabbed a greasy slice of pizza from a takeaway window – saved my life. Crust was meh, cheese was good. Sat on the concrete wall facing the beach, munching and staring. Holy crowds. Like, wall-to-wall people. Kids screaming, music blasting from portable speakers, groups drinking beers, sunbathers sprawled everywhere. It’s not a quiet getaway spot, folks. It’s a giant, noisy party on the Adriatic. Loved the energy though. Couldn’t stop staring at the mix of tourists looking bewildered and locals just owning it.
Wrapping Up the Chaos
Stuck around until late afternoon. Heat was brutal. Saw the place transform – more drinking, louder music, sun starting to dip. Finally decided I needed shade and a proper meal away from the chaos. Getting changed was a mission again with wet feet on concrete. Walked back along the Riva, feeling tired but happy. Saw the famous Bačvice? Check. Got mildly traumatized by jellyfish? Check. Ate questionable pizza? Check. Witnessed the madness of Picigin? Double check.
So, Was it Worth It?
Look, it’s not the prettiest beach technically. But the vibe? Unique. Like nowhere else I’ve been. Would I go back just to swim? Probably not – too crowded, too shallow, too many jellyfish buddies. Would I go back to drink a beer, people-watch, and marvel at the insanity of Picigin under the sun? Absolutely. It’s an experience, that’s for sure. Pack patience, sunscreen, and maybe your own snacks.
